How much does a box of guardrail road track weigh?

I own land and I own an old railroad bed within it. I want to remove it and take the rail to a scrap metal courtyard. Basically I would like to know how much a sector of it weighs. This is a standard railroad bed similar to they use today. Not one of those old skinny ones. Also if I be to cut through it what kind of saw would I use? I know a plasma cutter would be best but I'm trying to accumulate money. Also does anyone know what you would get per pound for the steel at a fragment yard? Thanks. Appreciate your answer.


Answers:    Step 1, bring in sure the rail belongs to you, lol! Don't hoot, it happens!

Step 2, Find out what size the railing is, as this affects its value. Look at the sides of the rail for the rail size. There will be abundant figures, but some resembling "80 AS" or "90RE" or "105DY". or "112 RE".

A full list of railing sizes here
http://www.akrailroad.com/OnlineCatalog/...

the second-from-rightmost column is the section designation (90 RE). The second-from-leftmost column is the designer of the banister. AREA, ASCE, ARA-A ARA-B are common, most others indicate a bloody type of rail. If it's 105DY, drop me a private file!

The number is pounds per yard, the counterweight of the rail when rolled. (not counting wear and corrosion).

Step 3, telephone around to local railway museums and short lines and see if anyone wants it. **they may come out verbs it up and haul it away for you**. Pulling guiderail is hard work, especially if you don't own the right tools.

Step 4, call up A&K Railroad Materials or LB Foster and see if they want it, as they do trade surrounded by used rail.

If it's 80 lbs. or more, it's probably worth more as non-torched railing. Once you cut it with a torch, it is shaving. The torch destroys the strength.

If you want to cut it up yourself I recommend either unbolt or torching off the square ends of the track bolts holding together respectively 33-39' section. Don't even try to torch sour the round end, that won't work :) Try not to gouge the united bar near the torch if you can as joint bar are also valuable. Often there's a overweight lockwasher which makes it easier not to gouge the collective bar, and try lay a tieplate there too. Then detonation out the bolts with a sledge, and pop the united bars rotten with a sledge and/or prybar.

As you verbs spikes and track bolts, put them in buckets and save track of every one. At my railway museum, a spike tore a hole in a loader tire, $500. Ouch.

The expensive materials here are:
- Rail of 80 lb. size or greater
- Joint bars to meeting
- Tieplates not badly corroded
- Special trackwork of any banister size, i.e. switch points, frogs, or rail/rail crossings aka "diamonds".

Spikes and track bolts are garbage, unless they look up to date.

I have hear that scrap metal yard are obliged by directive to report anyone who attempts to sell railroad parts.
The elder rails resembling you have are probably 100 pound rail in that a courtyard (3 foot section) weighs 100 pounds.while unusual heavier rails may be 140 pounds per courtyard. The best way to cut the rail is with an acetylene torch.
5 cents per pound is in the region of the going rate but varies from time to time.
Most square yards will require proof of ownership for sliver rails earlier they buy them. I think you can digit out why.
Cutting rail near an acetylene torch can be tricky because of the high carbon content of the iron. That is why gandy gang usually use hack saws.
Oh yes the mass answer is correct. Rail is measured in pounds per courtyard and usual weights are 85# - 100# - 120# - 132#
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