actual temp is 162...taken beside a laser temp gun.
350 engine, 5 speed standard...
Answers: Just a shot in the depressing...
EGR valve soak will drop Idle temps thru the floor.
However,,it's USUALLY accompanied by some running/idle talent issues.
Another thing,,,
Partial internal blockage of Radiator.
Crossflow radiators stop-up from Bottom Up,,,
This have the effect of "Shortening" the Radiator's Height,,
But it Also Repositions the CENTER of the Radiator Core in relation to Fan Clutch's thermal sensor.
Result is,,,
and engine begin to come up to Operating temp,,
You get an unusual concentration of fry,,,so to speak.
The airflow across the rad core makes the Fan Clutch THINK it's hotter than it truly is.
So,,Fan Clutch engages into full cooling mode while engine is still in truth cold.
You should be able to Hear/Feel if Fan Cluch is occupied,,and fan is roaring complex & pushing a bunch of air.
Switch engine OFF,,,and FEEL how much resistance here is to turn the fan blades.
At 160's it oughta darn in close proximity be free-wheeling.
You can sorta "X-Ray" your radiator and get a rough theory of any internal blockage pattern.
-Run it till it's hot,,,
Spray radiator beside a hose.
Use a Good Light to see where the Water Evaporates fast versus any areas of the Fins where it Stays Wet.
The HOT places which hold good coolant flow will Dry close by Instantly,,,
Any "Cold Places " where Coolant is blocked from flowing will remain raining.
Partial Blockage on anything 5~7 yrs old or more is almost general.
But radiators are Big enough to accomodate closely of blockage.
USUALLY a clogged up radiator will give bad Too Little Heat,,
causing Fan Clutch to remain OFF.
So engine Overheats from Fan not adjectives.
Which is all OPPOSITE of your situation.
But OCCASIONALLY,,,,
Clogged Lower Tubes lift to Flow Higher in the Core.
And it's the "Hottest" Water returned from engine.
Instead of getting Dispersed thru entire core and losing a bit of steam before getting to Fan Clutch nouns....
More of it goes more directly thru the tubes nearer the Clutch.
Makes a concentrated Hot Spot which tricks admirer into engaging.
Radiator afterwards returns Overly cool water to engine.
It happen,,,but it's RARE,,and it's TRICKY to determine.
Try measuring Temp on FAN CLUTCH after shutting down,,,,
compared to Lower Corner of radiator on the side Opposite of hose inlet.
Or,even easier/simpler,,
Block Radiator with a piece of Cardboard.
Try to put it between Fan & Radiator,,,,and not a short time ago in Front of Radiator....to more fully Isolate fan's airflow .
CAREFULLY & SECURELY(sorry,,lately HAD to say that reminder:)
See what unexploited temps ya get beside "No Airflow"...
which is more like Normal Conditions until full temp is reach.
One other thing,,,and it probably doesnt apply here....
"Heavy Duty" and "Extra Cooling" Fan Clutchs occupy Very early contained by temp scale.
They're rate in expressions of "Percentage of Drive Rotation"
They'll spin much closer to actual INPUT RPM ,,,rather than slipping more and running far Underspeed similar to "standard" fan clutches do.
None of the above may be any use whatsoever,,,but when ya run outa Normal Things to troubleshoot,,,,it's simply a couple ideas you may wanna check out.
When COOLING TOO WELL get beyond simply "Stuck Open Thermostat" problems,,,picken's get pretty slim.
Another Not-Likely-but Possible,,,
a Leaky Heater Valve can also shed a buncha grill thru heater core and draw out Warm-Up cycle
But Eventually it should warm up.
And you'd get the impression heat from vents/dash even if blower wasnt on
Good Luck near it
and you want it hotter why.... is the heater stopped? and just becasue its spanking new dont mean its working right sometimes they are desperate... if everything is working like the electric fire and its not running hot id start out it... if its not getting warm the oven then conceivably you need to replace again or check it out see if its not upside down perchance
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