Answers: don't listen to the dolts who told you to wait till your belt breaks. If you belt brakes the valvetrain is out of sync next to the piston movements. Pistons will slap against valves, valve, retainter and springs will break, shatter, or break. I suggest the timing belt asap it should be changed about every 90k. If it breaks you might as ably buy another car, because you would be replacing alot.
If it's not broke.....Why fix it?
perchance buy one if you have some extra bread but dont install it until the current one kicks out
Aaaa....196,000 miles and the resourceful belt, you are waiting for your engine to die. Remember, Hondas are "interference engine" meaning that if the timing belt snaps, consequently you motor is dead. $600 is alot. Go to any Pep Boys or you local honda dealership and price the parts. Then go to a local, reputable shop and it will cost you @ $200.00 for the commission. I have a '89 civic Si and it cost me @$100.00 but afterwards again I change it myself.
I enjoy broken two timing belts on 1990 Honda's DXs (I had a hatchback and a 4dr) contained by both cases there be no ancillary damage. Yes, yes, I know this is an interference engine and I be lucky.
As for doing it yourself (i did). It's a pain contained by the behind. There is a motor mount inwardly the radius of the belt. Be prepared to undo 1 motor mount and heave the engine to get the belt on.
BTW - reputable shops surrounded by the DC area charge $500 +/- to do this brief. By the book it is 5 hours.
My advice: translation the belt and the pump
I don't want to proof read this for grammar, so some parts might not be the easiest reading.
I needed to translation the timing belt on my 90 civic hatch, the estimate from the honda dealer be 391 and some change. I approved i could do it cheaper myself, I don't know if you are that kind of character or not, but here is most of what you need to know
parts be about 130 because you want to change the timing belt tensioner usually when you bring back a new belt as resourcefully as the water pump, because you hold to remove the timing belt to get to the sea pump and since you are already there, why not?
If you don't own a manual, you may want to gain one(if you decide to do it yourself). Removal of everything is pretty straight forward untill it comes time to purloin of the crankshaft bolt. I think someone said you inevitability to remove the left motor mount and lift the engine. you don't need to verbs the engine out of the compartment, but you will need to support it near a jack. more on this later. Don't remove the motor mount untill you hold the crankshaft bolt loose.
To get the crankshaft bolt loose, you stipulation 2 or 3, 1/2 inch grade 8 bolts next to nuts of any grade. report just ample of the threads of so that you can get them through the holes on the crankshaft pulley. you'll stipulation to jam a steel slab between these so that you can keep the crank shaft from spinning (it's torqued to 119 ft/lbs). you can see how this guy does it here: http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54pont... This site be somewhat helpful.
Oh, and you'll call for a 1/2 drive 17mm socket, 2 10-inch extensions, a half inch drive breaker stick, a cheater pipe to slip on the end of the breaker inn, and a jack stand.
run the extension and breaker bar out historic the body of the car and rest it on the jack-stand, so you can put adjectives your weight on the shutting of the pipe. if it feels similar to you're going to break something, that's normal
after that everything get easy again, spawn sure you have the engine @ TDC, verbs of the timing belt and tensioner, replace the water pump, next replace the timing belt. If the old timing belt looks righteous, it's not, there is really little visual difference between a bright timing belt and one on the verge of downfall.
Oh, and before you can return with the timing belt off, you inevitability to remove the left engine mount, no big do business, just 2 or three bolts. Before you do this, lift up the engine enough to carry the weight of of the mounts, and put a jackstand underneath the oilpan beside a board between (to protect the oil pan) to hold the engine up.
Putting things posterior together is largely the reverse of taking them off. Just trademark sure that your engine is at TDC before putting the timing belt on or you might enjoy trouble with timing/firing. I'm sure you can find how to catch your engine to TDC somewhere else if you need it. its not that complex, i just don't want to spend the time explaining it.
--ALTERNATIVE METHOD--
spend the 400 and enjoy a mechanic do it
*Note - i did this on a 90 1.5l engine, but it is the same colleagues as a 91, so most of this information will work for you.
** other note- use proper saftey precautions when working on your car, I can't give a hand any one stupid enough to use unsafe working practices, I'm not aphorism the asker of this question is stupid, i'm only just trying to cover my ****
replace your timing belt, water pump, seal and drive belts, and check for other services, like stopcock adjustment and fluids that may need to be changed
More Auto Questions and Answers...
This article contents is post by this website user, AutoQnA.com doesn't promise its accuracy.