Answers: adjectives of the above junk is great info if it really matter or you had 150 k miles on it, you can try a factory grease filter from toyota they have a tap in them to relief oil drainback while setting
I would be little apprehensive, as very well. Here is a simple test you can do yourself. Remove your grease filler cap and look at the vertebrae of it. Is it coated with brown, or goo, or flaky crystals that you can chisel with your fingernail??When you look inside the engine, are the engine parts you can see verbs, or coated??This is sludge and/or varnish. Whatever you see here is the what your entire engine looks like inside. Adding Slick 50 will single cover things up and may even worsen things. Sometimes it can make your grease seals seepage. Your engine has a hydraulic (oil pressure sensitive) timing secure tensioner. It's job is to hold on to your timing chain at the proper rigidity. If there is abundantly of "muck" inside the engine, then the passageways that preserve the pressure up to snuff are being compromised. Also, you own an oil pressure nouns valve built into your grease pump that is supposed to regulate the pressure. At start-up, more pressure is required until the grease warms-up to it's its best viscosity, then the nouns valve change the pressure to match. The valid problem here is probably varnish and sludge build-up in these lofty precision assemblies. The right answer is to do a de-sludging!! Most owner's manuals are persistent about not using grease additives to their engines; usually, nothing is required. The best grease I've seen is the Mobil One 0W-40 grease that surpasses all auto maker's requirements, and protects best at start-up. But if you hold sludge build-up, then nought will get through your grease passageways at start-up, until these areas are as-new clean. I would be merry to E-mail to you the procedure I have found to work the best. Just ask me!
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