1-Do I buy a amp that say it is 1200 watts or one that says its rms is 1200 watts?
2-Do I contest the ohms?
If not can you explain to me how to match the ohms of a speaker to the ohms of a amp so I don't ever hold to ask this question again.
Thank you for adjectives of your help
Answers: WOW! John M is totally wrong!
The REAL answer...
Since you are buying two subs the RMS power handling of respectively gets added together.
Now you stipulation an amp that's 2400 watts RMS @ 1 ohm (stable).
While the watts double, the final ohm load change by how you wire them.
I'm assuming thay are single coil (not dual or DVC) and they would be wired resembling so - http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j230/s...
If your total system power is 1000 watts RMS or more, you will need to:
1. Upgrade the alternator to a glorious output alternator
2. Upgrade to a heavy duty wide cycle battery
3. Upgrade the "Big 3" - specifically to replace the power wire between the freestyle and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis near at least 1/0 AWG cable.
Failure to do this will result in you replacing them anyway as the alternator will eventually backfire.
Here is a guide that will calculate what size alternator and power wires you requirement http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php...
A second battery is never a obedient idea as it's an added strain on the alternator to charge two battery AND supply power for the car. The ONLY time a second freestyle is useful is if the audio system is to be used near the car stale.
A cap is lone good so far as the audio system isn't trying to verbs too much from the electrical system. A cap doesn't provide more power, it's designed to 'stiffen' the voltage to the amp, nil esle. If the current isn't there, a sou`wester won't help. The alternator must own at least 20% more amperage power than the entire vehicle and nouns system combined for a cap to be of benefit which is ironically duplicate requirements for an amp to be efficient.
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To John M,
RMS (Root Mean Square) is also the thermal ends given by the manufacturer as the continuous power a sub can toy with before disaster. Ideally you don't want to exceed the RMS rating by more than 10%.
Peak or MAX power is an arbitrary number with no unadulterated standard of measurement.
The ohm nouns to an amp greatly affects the output RMS power. Say an amp is 400 RMS @ 4 as well as mortal 800 RMS @ 2 ohm.
This is where ohms and RMS watts walk hand surrounded by hand.
You can put as copious subs on an amp as long as:
1) the impedance doesn't fall crash down below what the amp can handle
2)the power handling of the subs isn't exceeded by more than 10%.
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Ohms and RMS enjoy nothing to do next to each other. But it is a really virtuous way to souk loudspeakers.
But here is your answer:
An Ohm is a value of resistance (called a load). You stipulation resistance to change one form of punch into another. In the case of a loudspeaker, you are shifting electrical energy (from the amplifier) within to Physical Energy (the movement of the woofer) which creates sound liveliness.
If you want your system to work properly, first make sure that the amplifier you are buying can drive loads at 2 ohms. A 2 ohm nouns is very unyielding on an amplifier because it is so close to a dead short. If the amplifier is Rated at 2 ohms, THEN look at it's power output at 2 ohms. In other words, forget the RMS rating because it is not a adjectives measurement.
When I look at the specs on that driver, it seem as though you should use an amp that puts out 1500 watts at 4 ohms. The L7 has a sensitivity of solitary 87.4 dB, so you should expect a peak output of roughly speaking 199dB per L7.
"Ohms and RMS have zilch to do with respectively other"---Bwahahahahahahahah thats a great one. Grapes and wine have nil to do with respectively other, neither do Bill Clinton and Monica Lewinsky....I think I saw Sparky answer the examine, so good luck, those subs will slam beside that power!
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